From: Sarah
Sent: December 28, 2006 2:19 PM
To:
Subject: Thursday, Dec. 28 - odds and ends from
Matsue...
Well, it's official; I'm sitting in the International Centre looking at my
first bona fide Japanese snowstorm. The wind is high, and the gray-green water
is choppy and roiling as it makes its way northeast from Lake Shinji. The ducks
in the water were bobbing close to shore, and I saw an eerie sight as I crossed
the bridge. I looked east, at the rice paddies on the long, flat island below
me, and I saw what seemed to be about thirty bluish ovals in the middle of the
field. I stopped to try to puzzle what they were. They looked for a
moment like tombstones, then I realized I was looking at the backs of a large
cluster of BIG birds - herons or storks, or something else - , all spaced about
a foot or two apart and standing stock-still facing away from the wind. A few
sentries stood on higher ground. Strange. I need to look at a Japanese
birdwatching book sometime, so I'll know what I'm looking at.
When I left home a few hours ago, it was cold but still sunny. The odd
flake of snow was spiralling down from the sky, but the mountains were veiled at
the top. These mountains - when I say "mountain", I don't want you to get the
wrong idea. These aren't huge mountains, although their sides are
steep. They are very close, and they have rounded peaks covered
with trees. They have a very comforting presence. This is part of a range
stretching north towards the sea. Matsue castle sits on one of its
foothills, isolated from the rest. Matsue city appears to end abruptly at the
foothills, just past the university, but I haven't gone exploring that way yet.
Now the snow has stopped completely. Go figure.
I'm really enjoying the freedom and speed that a bike gives me. Of the
two that Neal left me, I've been using the mountain bike exclusively. Her name,
as written on the side, is "My Pallas". She was in pretty rough shape, so I've
oiled her joints and bought her a new bike light, and she feels much better
now. I never thought I'd get on a bicycle again, and now I'm a
convert. I travel all over the city now, and love it!
I got a Christmas package from home on Christmas Day, addressed to me from
my stepfather's bookstore. It contained a Christmas card, a Blomidon Naturalists
Society 2007 calendar, some fair trade organic chocolates from Just Us!
(chocolates made in Hantsport; who would have imagined it!) and a small blue
volume of Japanese folk tales and naturalist's notes by Lafcadio Hearn. Now most
of you may not have heard of Lafcadio Hearn, but in Matsue he's famous. Born in
Greece and raised in Britain, Hearn came to Japan in the early 1800's, coming
first to Matsue, where he lived near the castle for close to a year before
moving to other parts of Japan. He fell deeply in love with Japan and wrote many
books about Japanese culture and traditions, landscapes and stories,
bringing Japan to the eye of the world. He rhapsodized about Matsue in
particularly affectionate descriptive prose. And Matsue has responded in kind.
His rooms here in the old part of town have been preserved as he left them, a
statue of him stands nearby, and in stores you can buy Lafcadio Hearn
chocolates, sake, wine, tea and coffee. So I was delighted to get a copy of
one of his books. The stories and style remind me a bit of Yeat's Irish
fairytale collections. It won't take me long to finish it, especially with my
holiday break starting today!
I've finally got my bank account sorted out, so I can take the next step of
getting a home phone and Internet service. I'm looking forward to it!
I had two days of work during Counselling Week. My teaching duties were
light, so I put my efforts into preparing my classes for the first two weeks of
the new year. I've been colouring a lot; Yuri, one of the other teachers,
remarked that sometimes preparing for class is like being in kindergarden
again. I also had a lot of check tests. Many of my students use self-study
materials at home to improve specific skills like grammar, fluency (speaking
smoothly), listening, et cetera. Check tests are 10-15 minute sessions where we
go over the words and phrases and read them aloud in
dialogues. It's very motivating for the students, and I found the
tests quite fun as I got to know my students better. I had one private
lesson as well, which went really well. I'm starting to relax and trust myself a
little more.
Now I'm looking out at pale、late afternoon sunshine, though the sky is
still gray.
I need to go to a grocery store with someone who speaks Japanese. I have a
couple of recipe books, but I've been unable to identify or ask for a few key
ingredients I think I need. I've been living on stir-fries and miso soups,
so I'm doing okay... and I LOVE my electric rice cooker. The problem I
have is that five days of the week, I don't get home until 10pm or so, and the
last thing I want to do is make or eat a big meal. But I'm snackish, so the
temptation to buy some chips or something fried is strong. There
are plenty of fried foods cheaply available in Japan, plus lots of
Western-style fast food; though I got briefly turned off chips after
accidentally buying fish-flavoured ships twice. (I NEED to learn to read
Japanese!). I also got caught out buying bread. I picked up a dark loaf of
bread, thinking it was rye or oatmeal, because I don't want to buy the
ubiquitous white bread. Turned out it was chocolate bread. Whoops. I ate it
anyway. I've made a few mistakes like that.
At work, I'm on the bento plan. You buy a set number of bento box
lunches (for an outrageously low price), and the bento people bring lunch to
your office. A bento lunch comes in two plastic boxes. The smaller one
has rice in it, and the larger one is divided into sections containing a
variety of small dishes: a meat or fish dish, some vegetables, and a
selection of salads and pickles. The Japanese love pickles. It's cheap, it's
healthy, and it's giving me a chance to try a lot of different foods. The bentos
have a cartoon character on the front. Every company here seems to have either a
cartoon mascot, or a celebrity rep. AEON has a group of Japanese
celebrities, including a pretty young movie actress who is on all our
posters and a distinguished kabuki actor. I don't know any of them. I've also
seen Cameron Diaz hawking Softbank cellphones, and Tommy Lee Jones is
the face of Boss canned coffee.
I was briefly addicted to the canned coffee (it comes out of the vending
machine HOT! I'm easily impressed.), but now I've cooled on it.
I'd have to call it "coffee-type drink", not real coffee, and although it has
plenty of sugar and caffeine and is highly effective, I don't like the jittery
feeling it gives me.
I also have to mention the dish that Neal introduced to me before he left.
It's called okonomiyaki, which roughly translates as "things I like
fried". It consists of an egg batter and a series of ingredients (cabbage,
onions, sprouts, carrots, shrimp, bacon, chicken, et cetera) brought to you raw.
You mix it up yourself and pour it on the grill in the centre of the table,
flip it to cook the other side and eat it with lots of different sauces and
garnishes. It's like a huge, thick, tasty omelette or savoury pancake.
Mmm.
This is getting a long, so I'll wrap up. The International Center is closed
until January 3 starting tomorrow, so I might not be in touch, or the emails
will be much shorter. Have a happy new year, and I'll talk to you all in
2007!
Sarah
Sarah
"Roads go ever ever
on
Under
cloud and under star
Yet feet that wandering
have gone
Turn
at last to home afar."