I hope
everyone had a happy Easter. I hear Nova Scotia got a nice fresh coating of snow
to celebrate the holiday. I talked to my family this morning just after 7am (it
was Sunday night for them, and they had just finished a nice lamb dinner), but
after numerous frustrating tries, failed to get a visual of them with Mum’s new
web cam. They could see me, though, so I waved a lot. It was the whole family:
my parents, Sally and Chris with Joey-chan, Tina and her boyfriend Gavin, my
grandmother Doreen, my aunt Shirley and our family friend Andree. Joey gurgled,
cooed and cried for me, and I heard from everybody. It was nice. Then I turned
off the computer and went back to sleep for three hours.
I needed
the rest because I experienced my first hanami (cherry blossom viewing)
party on Sunday night. I’ve mentioned this uniquely Japanese phenomenon before:
the Japanese put their love of food and drink together with their reverence for
the beauty of the cherry blossom to have a sociable, drunken picnic amid scenes
of spectacular natural beauty. I had to work at AEON from 12 till 5, so as soon
as I finished I slipped out of my suit (will I never stop thinking of it as a
costume? Probably not.) into jeans and a sweater and lit out on my bicycle for
the castle. I got there quickly and paused to take a picture of the castle walls
high overhead, with the beautiful white and pink blossoms spilling over the
walls. Clusters of petals dotted the water of the moat. I looked for turtles,
and saw five basking on the rocks in the setting sun. They are quite large, with
a shell circumference close to the size of a dinner plate. The turtles woke up
about two or three weeks ago, and for most of that time have doubtless been
considering going back to sleep until the weather improved, but this weekend was
beautiful. Climbing up the uneven stone steps to the castle, I stopped to do a
double take at a young woman in insanely high leopard-print stilettos tottering
down the stairs clinging for dear life to her boyfriend’s arm. I have nothing
against leopard-print stilettos, especially in Japan, but not for picnics or the
precarious footing around the castle!
I found
the gang on the second level of the castle, where the defensive keep used to be.
Now it is an open, grassy area surrounded by cherry trees. I found my friends
Seiji, Junko and Aki, Yukiko and Kei, Neil, Keith, Yuzo, and a couple of others
I didn’t know. [Hey, and the first question one new guy asked me was my very
favourite popular question in Japan: “How old are you?” It’s amazing how many
people ask me that. I should ask it right back, since I’ve been told Japanese
women feel pretty much the same way about revealing their age as Western women.
And yet they always ask me] Many other people I knew had been there earlier and
left. The remaining folk were all very cheery, as they had been eating and
drinking since 2. I got some food (I had brought my own dinner, but some of
Yukiko’s fantastic picnic lunch was left. It was delicious!) and grabbed a beer.
I thought for a moment maybe the party was over; everyone was packing up garbage
and folding the tarps. But instead we moved up to the hedged-in lawn on the top
level, with a beautiful view of the castle. If you want to see my pictures and
put faces to names, go to: http://www.dangerblenkhorn.spaces.live.com/.
The light faded fast as the sun sank to the west, but the park was softly
illuminated by lamps. There were others still celebrating as well, coming and
going all around us. A university sports team had set up near us, and were
raucously celebrating their future wins. They were silent long enough to greet
their coach and listen with rapt attention to his rallying speech.
When the
beer ran out and some of our party were running out of steam, the rest of us
decided to go to karaoke. We dodged into Seiji’s bar, Kaya, first, to regroup,
then headed over to San-San-Go, the local karaoke hotspot (conveniently close to
AEON). With a room of our own, we sang for two and a half hours. I sang a lot!
It was great! I learned some valuable lessons – for example, I can’t sing Simon
and Garfunkle – and pleasantly surprised myself with some of the songs I sang (
although you can’t trust my opinion; I was a little drunk…). Keith, the head
gardener from Matsue’s English garden, had a lovely, Willie Nelson-ish voice.
Seiji can’t carry a tune, I’m sorry to say, but he makes up for this deficiency
in volume.
Last
week I gave Seiji one of my bicycles, since my predecessor Neal had left me
three. He had brought it that night, so we walked across the bridge together. It
was cool by that point, but still not so bad (except my right sleeve was soaked
in beer). I was relieved that he didn’t hit on me again, since that would have
been awkward. I said good-bye and got home by 1:30, delighted to hit my futon
and sleep!
After a
couple of weeks of weird, oscillating weather, it seems to be turning a little
nicer. We had an afternoon of alternating sun, rain and hail the other day. This
whole region is called the san-in, or “shadowed mountain”, region, and is
famous for rain and cooler weather. Southeast of us is the san-yo, or
“sunny mountain”, region incorporating Okayama and Kyoto; it’s much nicer
there.
Matsue
is celebrating its 400th anniversary over the next four years (the
time it took to build the castle), and the city kicked off celebrations on
Saturday with a samurai parade from one of the shrines in the south of the city
up to the castle. I missed it because of work, but the photos were
spectacular!
I’ve
been following some of my friends at home by reading their blogs. I read my
sister Tina’s blog regularly, as well as my friend Natasha’s (she’s doing all
sorts of cool stuff, she looks great, and she has a great job acting at Ship’s
Co. this summer; way to go, Tasha!), and Nate’s, which unfortunately is
stagnating now that he’s lost his Internet connection (by the way, Nate, I have
also read The House With a Clock in its Walls, and I agree with you 100%;
it’s a fantastic and genuinely terrifying children’s book). If others of you
have blogs out there, please send me the address and I’ll check it
out.
I
haven’t made it to aikido in four weeks now, first because of illness and
recently because I’ve been too busy at work. I miss it a lot, and hope I can
slip out and get there this Saturday.
There
was an election here on Sunday, and for the two weeks prior to it, the
candidates endlessly circled the city in vans equipped with powerful
loudspeakers to shrilly exhort the populace to vote for them. I saw the
volunteers in orange jumpsuits, wearing white gloves to symbolize how clean
their hands were (or so a student told me). I was glad to see no sign of the
Fascist-looking right-wingers who gave me such a nasty surprise on the New
Year’s holiday.
I’ve
almost mastered eating soup with chopsticks now; it’s not as hard as it sounds.
(Tip: you can pick up the bowl, and you’re allowed, even encouraged, to slurp).
I eat with chopsticks most of the time, although I do have forks and knives in
my kitchen. As you may have noticed from my previous entries, where I have
lovingly described some of my meals, I am REALLY enjoying the food in Japan. A
student brought me a treat of sakura-mochi (“cherry blossom sweet”) that has
completely won me over to Japanese desserts. It is a thin, green crepe-like
circle made from rice flour, smelling sweetly like a cherry blossom, wrapped in
a cherry leaf and stuffed with sweet bean paste. Unbelievably
good.
Work has
had its ups and downs, as has my mood. “Hello time!” with prospective students
is getting easier, but I haven’t given an interview yet and I’m afraid it’s
because my colleagues don’t think I can do it. Not that I want to, but I hate to
feel inadequate. And I have often felt inadequate this week, as new students are
starting and I’m trying to make good, exciting, fun classes. Plus the Inner
Critic has been a real bitch. On the positive side, Taeko, the new teacher, is a
great joy to have around; I’m always happy to see her. Did I tell you she
learned her nearly perfect English in the Czech Republic? Very
cool.
I got my
summer clothes from home on Friday. My summer dresses are hanging up, adding a
splash of colour to my closet, although they still need ironing. And I got a
package from Sam this week which included a lovely red summer dress, although I
can’t gain an ounce if I want to wear it! It’s lovely. Thanks for the package,
Sam, and the chocolate. And the Saturday comics.
I’m
making a list, and checking it twice, of all the clothes I need to buy soon.
Despite the arrival of sartorial reinforcements, I am sadly in need of summer
work clothes. Plus, my suits are showing some signs of wear – a stuck zipper
here, a loose thread or frayed collar there – and they need some backup. We
won’t talk about the state of my beloved black pumps that have served me so
well. They may need to retire soon. As far as I can think so far, I
need:
1 pr.
walking/biking shoes, 1 pr. work shoes, 2-4 blouses/work shirts, 2 light skirts,
1 pr. light slacks, work dress(?), blazer, light coat, rain
shoes(?)
So,
Hiroshima, here I come!
Tuesday
update:
This
morning Ryoko-san picked me up at 7:45 to go hand out flyers at Kita High
School, the best school in the city. We were there a few weeks ago to hand out
flyers when exam results were released. Today was the commencement ceremony for
the new students. (How about that, folks? Starting school in April? And summer
holidays are a lot shorter here as well!) So we waited on the hill for students
and parents to wend their way past us. It was a gorgeous morning, and my mood
was light as we handed out flyers under a sakura tree, its branches thick
with snowy white blossoms. A stand of bamboo stood behind us, and the liquid
trills of a lark could be heard above. I kept getting distracted, and whistling
back at the birds, deliberately entertaining Kohei, the university student who
was helping us. Ryoko was very pleased with our work, and said I did a great
job. Oops! I don’t want to be too good, since I really, really hate
pamphleteering. But on mornings like this, it’s not such a chore. I have to do
it tomorrow morning as well, and then I think I’m off the hook for the rest of
the month.
Talk to
you all later.
Love,
Sarah